Hillside Garden Center

Brunnera Jack Frost

Brunnera 'Jack Frost' is a perennial on my (Jim Hoteling) Top Ten list of perennials. It is also called Chinese Forget-me-Not for its flower that is similar to the common forget-me-nots in size, color and time of bloom (early spring). Read More

Knockout Roses

Our Number 1 recommendation for a Hardy Shrub Rosebush is Knockout-and it certainly is!!!

This plant will bloom non-stop from June through the late fall with loads of flowers as seen in this photo. Its foliage is dark green and resistant to both disease and insect problems that plagues other Roses. Read More

Cut Back Shrubs

Cut back shrubs refer to plants that can benefit from being pruned right to the ground each season, a practice known as Coppicing. This is a great technique for certain shrubs that are grown primarily for their foliage. The result is a whole new flush of vigorous growth from the ground that is lush and thick with better foliage color. This group of plants includes Barberry, Ninebark, Spirea, and Weigela. This pruning should be done when the plant is dormant in the late fall or early spring before the new growth emerges. Read More

DRIP IRRIGATION

We feature drip irrigation systems by Submatic. Help to save our precious water supply and your time by using drip irrigation to water your container gardens, perennial and vegetable gardens. Come see us for professional advise on a system customized to meet your needs. They have a very informative website, visit

Shade Trees
Looking for a Shade Tree?

We have many to choose from including Maples, Oaks, Birch, Willow, Dawn Redwood, Katsura and more

Tula Hats

Tula Hats are known for providing high quality hats that last more than one season at a great price. Our hats are favored among outdoor enthusiasts, travelers, and adventurers everywhere. Tula Hats are hand woven of Palm in the traditional manner by families in a small village near central Mexico. The Palm is grown in the warm coastal areas of Mexico and as a sustainable fiber is environmentally friendly and harvested twice a year.

Supress Weeds Naturally

Organic gardeners learn to tolerate a few weeds. You will find that mowing at our suggested height will greatly reduce the weeds that are able to survive.In small lawns, the correct hand-weeding tool may be the solution. For larger lawns the organic pre-emergent weed control...Read More

Deer Problems

For many people in this area, the White-tailed deer has been causing damage to ornamental shrubs and flowers by feeding on them. The severity of damage to ornamental shrubs and flowers is dependent upon your locality, the concentration of deer in the area and the availability of...Read More

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Planting Info

Plant Installation

PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS

Select a site that is reasonably well drained. Consider the growing requirements needed for the plant as well as the mature size to allow enough space.Choose the Right Plant for the Right Place!

DIG THE HOLE: Dig the hole just deep enough to support the rootball and anywhere from 1-3’ wider than the diameter of the container. Once planted the top of the soil level in the ground should be the same as is it was in the container. NEVER PLANT TOO DEEP. Planting a little higher than the existing grade will account for any settling. Trees must have a visible trunk or root flare as shown in the diagram to the right. This may require removing some of the soil from the top of the rootball. The most common theory of the cause of stem girdling roots is that they develop as a result of trees being planted too deeply. When root systems are buried, less oxygen and water is available. The roots will grow up towards the surface of the soil and tend to encircle the trunk. It is also important that when planting a tree, the sod should be removed and mulch applied. The wider the mulch area the better, as this improves root growth as well as preventing damage from trimmers and mowers. In poor drainage areas and heavy soils, dig down only until heavy soil is encountered. Set the root ball in this hole and cover with planting soil, forming a wide mound as shown to the right.
SOIL: Use the soil removed from the hole mixed with compost or good garden soil at a rate of 2:1 For broad-leaved evergreens such as holly, laurel, rhododendron, or other plants requiring a richer soil us 1 part soil to 1 part compost.
REMOVE CONTAINERS: Remove plastic pots, burlap, wire baskets and nylon cords before planting. If the plant does not readily come out of the pot, the container can be sliced down the side and removed ensuring less damage to the plant. Trees and shrubs in wire baskets or burlap root balls should be first set into the planting hole to minimize soil disturbance. You can then pull or cut the burlap away from the rootball removing as much as possible. It is best to cut away as much of a wire basket as possible.
HEALTHY ROOT GROWTH: Examine the root system when planting. Look for encircling roots. Many times these develop in container grown plants. Sometimes you can loosen them with your hands and spread them into the planting hole or you can slice through them vertically in several spots around the rootball ensuring their growth into the surrounding soil.
FERTILIZER: When first planting you should only be using a slow release fertilizer such as an osmocote-type or Nutri Paks that release nutrients over a long period of time. This will promote the development of a strong root system which will ensure long term survival for the plant. A root stimulator can also be used, which is mentioned in step 7.
BACKFILL: Fill around the root ball with 2/3 of the soil mix. Pack firmly by foot and then thoroughly soak the entire planting area. Continue this process until the hole is filled. This eliminates any air pockets that may cause the roots to dry out. THE ROOT BALL SHOULD ONLY BE AS DEEP AS IT WAS PLANTED BEFORE, or to the Root Flare on a tree.
ROOT STIMULATOR & MULCH: Using a root stimulator will help your plant get established quickly. Some are liquid that you mix with water and others are in a granular form that you mix with the soil. A 2-3” layer of mulch (preferably some type of bark mulch) should be applied around the plants. Mulch conserves moisture, moderates soil temperature extremes, improves root growth, prevents weeds and simply looks better than bare ground. Keep mulch 2-4” away from directly touching the trunk or the base of the shrub, as this may cause decay of the living bark at the base which is not adapted to consistent moisture and encourages disease problems. Do not fall victim to the VOLCANO EFFECT! when mulching, as this is a GUARANTEED SLOW DEATH. Read more about this on Page 12.
WATERING: A thorough soaking once a week during extended dry periods is necessary. Some plants may require more frequent waterings until established. Ask us about products to reduce your labor in watering.
STAKING & WRAPPING: Trees establish more quickly and develop a stronger trunk and root system if they are not staked. It may be beneficial in sites where excessive winds are a problem. See diagram for proper staking and remove after 1 year. Some trees may benefit from tree wrap and or tree guards to prevent cracking during the winter due to extreme temperature fluctuations and from deer and rodent damage. Visit our Garden Center for these products.

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